Making Mineral and Biological Amendments
By Nigel Palmer
The following excerpt is from Nigel Palmer’s new book The Regenerative Grower’s Guide to Garden Amendments (Chelsea Green Publishing, August 2020) and is reprinted with permission from the publisher.
The new plant model recognizes the importance of soil biology. Culturing indigenous microorganisms (IMO) is an exciting and effective method to capture soil microbes and introduce them into the growing area. Methods of harnessing microorganisms from the soil are documented in both Japan (Bokashi, effective microorganisms) and Korea (indigenous microorganisms). It would not be surprising to learn of other cultures practicing the same or similar processes. I first learned about making IMO from Natural Farming Agriculture Materials by Cho Ju-Young, and for consistency, I follow the nomenclature of IMO #1, IMO #2, IMO #3, and IMO #4 originated by Cho to identify the four separate processes used to make the finished product (IMO #4). A handful of leaf mold from the floor of the local woods represents the broadest range of bacteria, fungi, and archaea available. Capturing this most valuable resource is a great introduction to the diversity and useful characteristics of the biology within the soil. (An overview of the full four-stage process of making IMO is presented in “Indigenous Microorganisms” on page 48.)
The populations of soil microorganisms are unique to a site and are influenced by its drainage, orientation to the sun, and elevation. Microbial makeup also varies with the seasons. Microorganisms captured at a lower elevation may not be as effective if introduced into soils at a higher elevation, but those captured at a higher elevation will be effective when introduced at a lower elevation according to Cho Ju-Young in Natural Farming Agricultural Materials. This makes intuitive sense, and is analogous to survival of plants at different elevations. Hardy plants that grow at higher elevations, where weather conditions tend to be more extreme, generally can survive at lower elevations, where conditions are milder. But plants adapted to grow at lower elevations may not be able to withstand the colder temperatures, stronger winds, or lower oxygen content of the air up high.
The instructions I provide in this recipe and the three that follow will produce about half a yard of IMO #4 for a garden and home landscape. IMO #4 production can be scaled up to any level. In this first stage of the process IMO #1 is made, which is not shelf-stable and is primarily used to make IMO #2.
Make a trap box out of cedar or other wood that is available. The dimensions cited in the recipe are not the only possibility. Any box large enough to hold the cooked rice and still have ample open space at the top to allow the microorganisms room to flourish may be used. A ratio of about one-third air space to two-thirds rice is good. A basket wrapped up in a piece of cloth will work, but that setup is more vulnerable to invasion by critters. Don’t get hung up on finding exactly the right box. The most important thing is to try the process and learn from successes and mistakes. A sturdy trap should serve well for making many batches of IMO over time.
It’s a good idea to scout locations for setting the trap before starting the process. Look for a place in the woods where the leaf litter is thick. Or, if there is no woodland nearby, choose a spot near a big old tree or near a compost pile.
IMO #1
Materials
Wooden (cedar) box, 12 × 9 × 4 inches (30 × 23 × 10 cm)
3 cups (550 g) organic brown rice
Piece of wire mesh, approximately 18 × 15 inches
(45 × 40 cm)
Clean cloth
Plastic sheet or tarp
4 screws
Screwdriver
Shovel
Instructions
Step 1. Test out the box by fitting the wire mesh over the box opening, folding the mesh over the sides and overlapping it at the corners. Screw the mesh to the box at the four corners to secure it. The mesh screen is not essential to the process, but it provides protection against raccoons or other foragers. Also check that the cloth is large enough to cover the top of the box and extend over all four sides. The cover prevents soils and other debris from contaminating the rice and the developing biology, but it should be easy to peek under the cover to see how things are going inside the box. When the trap, screen, and cover are working well together, remove the screen from the trap and go on to the next step.
Step 2. Rinse and cook the organic rice in the usual way.
Step 3. Allow the rice to cool, and scoop it into the box. Be sure to leave the top third of the box empty so that the indigenous microorganisms will have space to grow.
Step 4. Cover the box with the wire mesh and use screws to secure the mesh at the corners.
Step 5. Cover the wire mesh with the cloth. The trap is now ready to be buried in a biologically rich location.
Step 6. Dig a hole at your chosen spot big enough to bury the box, such that the top surface of the trap will be just below the ground surface. Digging a hole in the woods may be a new experience. Start by removing the leaf litter on the surface and placing it to the side. The composition of the soil beneath the litter may be significantly different than in a garden. Root concentrations may be thick. Be nice, and work carefully. Those roots were there before you, and they circulate information and nutrition among the living. Set the box (with the cloth cover over the top and draping over the sides) in the hole and cover it with the leaf litter.
Step 7. Use sticks to mark the location of the trap.
Step 8. Leave the box in the ground for 5 to 10 days. Be mindful of the weather during this time. If heavy rain occurs, cover the trap area with a tarp. Light rain should not be a problem. Remove the tarp when the rain stops so the area can breathe.
Step 9. Check the contents of the box after a few days to see how things are progressing. The speed of microbial development is temperature-dependent. In early spring when soil temperatures are cooler—about 50°F (10°C)—this may take 10 days, while during the warm days of summer, 5 days should be enough. To inspect the contents of the box, remove the leaf litter and pull back the cloth. If no fuzz has developed, cover the box, wait a couple more days, and check again.
Step 10. When fuzz does develop, it’s important to assess the appearance. It is desirable to have the contents filled with a white fuzz that resembles cotton. These are the local indigenous microorganisms. If white fuzz has started to grow on the surface of the rice but unfavorable weather is predicted, it’s okay to bring the box inside. Warm indoor temperatures will accelerate growth, so be ready to make IMO #2 within a day or two, before the fuzz in the box turns gray.
Step 11. If the fuzz is gray, the microorganisms have grown past peak and are on the demise. If just a little gray on the surface of the fuzz, then move to make IMO #2 immediately, as it is dying and will not last long.
Step 12. If the fuzz is mostly gray or black, the biology is dead. Discard the contents onto the compost pile and try again. If the fuzz has a significant amount of red and blue coloring, it should also be added to the compost pile and the process should be restarted. A small amount of discoloration is okay.
Uses
The biology captured by this culturing process will not survive for long. It should be immediately fermented to make IMO #2, which is a refrigerator-stable biological product. I imagine that IMO #1 could be spread over the surface of a damp area outdoors and the biology might prosper, but I have not experimented with this approach.
Recipe at a Glance
Cook rice. When cool, fill box about 2⁄3 full.
Cover box with wire mesh; screw mesh in place at box corners.
“Plant” box in biologically rich area such as leaf litter, compost pile.
Cover with cloth, leaf mold, dry leaves.
Leave for 5 to 10 days, depending on weather (cold takes longer).
Cover with tarp if heavy rain.
White fuzz is local biology.
Small amount of discoloration is okay.
Too much discoloration is problematic; add material to compost pile and try again.
IMO #2
Fermenting Local Microorganisms
Amendment type: Shelf-stable (refrigerated) biological amendment
Raw materials: IMO #1, organic brown sugar
Content: Diverse local bacteria, fungi, and archaea
IMO #2 is the second stage of the IMO process, and it involves fermenting IMO #1. The fermentation process puts the local microorganisms into a suspended state that can be stored in the refrigerator for over a year and used when needed.
Materials
Captured local microorganisms (IMO #1)
Approximately 3 pounds
(1.4 kg) organic brown sugar
Scale
Large mixing bowl
1 half-gallon glass canning jar and 1 quart-sized glass canning jar
Piece of clean cloth
1 glass canning jar with tight-fitting lid for storage
Instructions
Step 1. Once white fuzz is established in your local microorganism trap (see “IMO #1), remove the contents (both rice and white fuzz) from the box and weigh it. Add the same amount by weight of organic brown sugar.
Step 2. Mix the materials all together in the bowl.
Step 3. Transfer into the crock or glass jar for fermenting. Be sure to leave air space above the contents, because the fermentation process needs to breathe. A good ratio is two-thirds ferment, one-third air space. Assuming 3 cups of rice was used when the IMO #1 was made, you will need to split the rice-sugar mixture between a ½-gallon and quart jars for fermenting. Other options would be to get a larger jar or fill the ½-gallon jar two-thirds full and discard the rest onto the compost pile.
Step 4. Cover the contents with the cloth and allow to ferment in a well-ventilated area out of the sun at a constant temperature for 7 to 8 days. The contents will morph into a brown liquid with a unique smell that is not totally disagreeable.
Step 5. After fermentation, transfer the contents into the glass jar(s) and screw on the lid. Label the container with the date and the location from which the local biology was captured. Store in the refrigerator.
Uses
IMO #2 is refrigerator shelf-stable for several years. The primary use of IMO #2 is to make IMO #3 (recipe included in my new book The Regenerative Grower’s Guide to Garden Amendments), but I have also used it to inoculate soils, seeds, and compost piles, especially if no other inoculant is on hand. Dilute IMO #2 at a ratio of 1:1000 and apply to the soil as a light watering to initiate biological activity before planting or to stimulate spring soil. To be effective there must be water, housing, and food to support the added biology! Adding to bare dried soil in the middle of the day will not be as effective as adding it to lightly mulched loose soil at the end of a rain, for instance. Add to the compost pile in the same manner to stimulate biological activity there. I have also used IMO #2 as a seed inoculant by adding the smallest amount to a jar of good water with minerals and submerging the seeds into the solution for 10 to 15 minutes before planting.
This is a unique product with many uses still to be established. Recognize it as a biological resource and experiment with it. Use your imagination.
Recipe at a Glance
Weigh IMO #1 (rice and white fuzz).
Mix with equal weight of organic brown sugar.
Cover and allow to ferment for 7 to 8 days.
Put contents into glass jar, screw on lid, and label.
Store in refrigerator.
Nigel Palmer has been a lifelong gardener in New England, relying on the amazing complexity of nature to inspire his gardening philosophy. He also works as an aerospace engineer, sorting, organizing, and resolving complex technical issues. He is the instructor and curriculum developer of the Sustainable Regenerative Gardening program at The Institute of Sustainable Nutrition (TIOSN). The Regenerative Grower’s Guide to Garden Amendments (Chelsea Green Publishing, August 2020) is his first book.
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