Planting & Caring for
Your Apple Tree
Planning to Plant Your Tree
First you will need to find a place that is well-drained; sandy loam soils are best. It is also very important to keep your trees in full sunlight as this will allow them to grow vigorously, and ultimately, produce the best fruit. Be careful to avoid frost pockets when planting as these will damage your fruit.
Planting Your Apple Tree
Now it’s time to start digging. You will need to dig a hole 3x the width of the size of the pot, and just as deep as the root ball. The dirt that you have taken out of the hole should be well mixed 50/50 with aged mushrooms compost, rotten pine bark, aged manure or compost. Now you can remove the plant from the pot, be careful not to hurt the root ball, and gently place it into your fresh dug hole. To avoid burying it too deep, make sure your plant is positioned with the top most roots at the soil line.
Once your tree has been placed in the hole, start filling it in with the mix soil, and push lightly to pack it. Your apple tree should be watered thoroughly for the roots to settle and to eliminate air pockets. The best soil for apple trees is slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0-6.8). You can purchase a soil acidity test or take a sample to the Cooperative Extension agent near you for testing.
Fertilizer should only be applied at correct times of the year. NEVER PUT FERTILIZER IN PLANTING HOLE!
To protect your tree, please provide a 4 foot diameter around the base, weed & grass free. This will provide a water basin, therefore minimizing anything else taking water and nutrients from the tree. During spring and summer, about 4-6 inches of mulch should be placed a few inches away from the trunk to provide good air circulation. The best mixture of mulch during spring is weed- free hay and compost. During summer time try a mixture of grass clipping, and weed- free hay. If desired add some pine bark and pine needles.
Depending on the landscape, and what your uses may be for your apple trees, try spacing them 15-20 feet apart. But no more than 20 feet to ensure the trees cross pollinate.
Fertilizing Apple Trees
No matter what type of fertilizer you choose (chemical or organic) make sure that it contains iron, zinc, magnesium, molybdenum, copper and boron. While these minor details may seem unimportant to you, your apple trees growth and production depends on it. Depending on the age of your plant, application of the fertilizer should be adjusted. Follow the chart below:
10-10-10 or 10-0-10 with minerals
1 cup for each year of tree’s life
Max out at 9 cups for mature tree
Espoma Citrus Tone (Organic)
6 cups for 1 year old
10 cups for 2 year old (4-6ft)
18 cups for 7-9ft tree
24 cups for tree over 9ft
Be sure the evenly spread fertilizer under the entire canopy of your tree, avoiding a 5 inch area around the trunk. After that is done be sure to water your tree. In zone 8-10 fertilize 3 times a year in late February, late May and late July/early August. Further north (zone 7), fertilize in March or after the buds break. NEVER fertilize after August (June in zone 7), because this will start new growth too late in the year and lead to freeze damage.
How Much Water Does An Apple Tree Need?
During the first year, the tree is newly established, meaning it is very critical for your plant to be watered. On light soil water twice a week, but on clay soil once a week will do. When watering your tree be sure to soak the root system entirely. This will usually take 40-50 minutes. Once the tree is established, it should receive at least one inch of water each week. Water regularly, especially during dry spells. This can cause fruit to prematurely drop is not well irrigated during the dry spell.
How to Prune your Apple Tree for Best Fruiting
If you live in the South, your tree should be pruned to an open center habit. At the time of planting, select 3-4 scaffold branches spaced equally around the trunk and clip the other branches flush with the trunk.
During the second dormant season, top the scaffold branches 36 inches away from the trunk to encourage secondary branching. The tree must have good air circulation in the interior.
Pruning should continue for the next five years to train the tree to grow upward and outward by thinning out crossing limbs. The tree can also be held to there place with allotted space by mold and hold cuts, which are devigorating heading cuts made into two year old wood. This can be done by topping back the main scaffold limb to a weaker outward growing shoot.
Once your tree has reached maturity, it should only be pruned during it dormant season. The branches should be thinned out and head back long shoots as needed to maintain tree shape. Remove the water sprouts. If left unpruned the tree will start to get bushy and lack vigor, therefore producing small fruit, and inferior quality apples. While pruning, remove and dead, damaged, or diseased branches. Head trees back with mold and hold cuts to maintain height for ease of picking.
Pollination & Chill Hours for Bare Root Apple Trees
Most apple trees require a cross-pollinator and a certain amount of chill hours to produce fruit, Although the Johnny Appleseed Authentic tree is self pollinating. If your tree does not get pollinated or have enough chill hours it will not bear fruit.
Harvesting Apples
Now it's time to harvest the fruits of your labor! When picking your apples, look to see if the background color lightens, changing from green to gold. Harvesting the apples at different stages in the ripening process can yield you many different flavors. A slightly ripe apple can be great for making pies or apple cider, while fully ripe apples are much sweeter and can be enjoyed with just a rinse under the sink. For extended shelf life store apples in the refrigerator.